Disclaimer: This report is based on personal observations, conversations, and impressions personally gathered in Myanmar in Autumn 2024.
A Shifting Landscape of Foreign Influence
In today’s Myanmar, Western tourists are a rare sight. Instead, visitors from Russia and China bring a steady presence, reflecting their governments’ close relationships with Myanmar’s current leadership. It’s an unusual dynamic, one that keeps some areas alive yet reveals deeper, strategic ties.
China’s Influence Beyond Economics
China’s presence is evident in cities like Mandalay, where Chinese businesses thrive, focused on Myanmar’s gold, jade, and other precious resources. But the relationship runs deeper than economic transactions. China supplies Myanmar with military equipment and expertise and is heavily invested in border stability to buffer against certain foreign influences and state systems.
Interestingly, while China backs Myanmar’s government, it also maintains ties with Myanmar’s ethnic armed organizations, likely to protect its investments and interests from multiple angles. On the ground, people speak about the ambiguity of China’s intentions, noting that some larger Chinese projects remain on hold. Beijing’s motives here seem to be layered, balancing stability with a hands-on approach from Yunnan Province, which has close involvement in border and trade issues.
Russia’s Growing Role
For Russia, Myanmar serves as a key ally, particularly as they both face Western sanctions. Russia is now Myanmar’s top weapons supplier, offering aircraft, defense systems, and support for educational and cultural exchanges. Many locals have split opinions on Russia’s role in supporting the current government and especially its air force capabilities, but it’s seen as a present and noticeable influence. For Russia, Myanmar is a partner in solidarity, especially as each country navigates its own struggles with Western policies.
Western Inaction and Waning Hope
“Lots of talking, little action,” was how one person summed up the West’s response. The eyes of the world seem fixed on conflicts in Ukraine and Gaza, with Myanmar appearing lower on the global radar. Yet, there is admiration here for Ukraine’s courage and determination, and some Burmese hold onto the hope that the West might one day extend similar support to their own struggles.
The Resilience of the Resistance
Despite years of division, ethnic resistance groups across Myanmar are finding common ground. With support from Burmese abroad, and contributions through what is now known as the “guerilla bank,” the resistance has evolved. Technology has helped these groups communicate and coordinate in new ways, although they still operate as a loose coalition of various ethnic forces: Kachin, Karen, Arakan, Shan, and others. “Their communication is much better now, and they seem more aligned, but whether this web is strong enough and will prevail is hard to say”, was a very clear statement summing up the opinion often heard.
However, underlying ethnic tensions remain, and the question of leadership looms. People here often wonder if a charismatic figure will rise to unify the resistance, but most simply long for peace, stability, and a future free from conflict. “We just need peace and a way to prosper” one person said, echoing a sentiment that seems universal across these divided lands.
The Spirit of Community Amid Disaster
When flooding hit regions like Inle Lake and Kalaw, the government’s support was minimal. One person laughed and snorted loudly when asked if there had been any aid from officials, their facial expression a mix of sarcasm and resignation. With little outside help, communities pulled together, carrying stranded neighbors to safety, sharing supplies, and rebuilding in a show of resilience. Small amounts of UN aid eventually arrived, but many felt it was too late and misdirected, with multiple layers of hands higher up in the hierarchy always grabbing into the honey pot first.
Decades of self-reliance have made these communities strong. “We know how to care for each other,” said one resident. People showed the water lines and destruction inside and outside their houses, up to the second floor. These floods were just the latest challenge in a long line of hardships, each one solidifying the people’s resilience and interdependence.
Stories of Displacement and Finding Unity
Displacement is a constant reality here, as families uprooted by conflict are forced to share shelters and lives with people from diverse backgrounds and languages. While adjusting to this new proximity has its challenges, many displaced families have found common ground, striving to create communities that reflect the Myanmar they hope to rebuild.
For many, being able to share their experiences with outsiders brings a profound sense of relief. “Thank you for listening,” one woman said, teary-eyed, as if simply being seen helped bear the weight of her struggles. “You provide us spiritual encouragement”. People often joke that visitors should “take our baby with you,” a bittersweet plea for a better life elsewhere. Their gratitude is deep, and a small gesture—listening, donating—can make an enormous impact on morale.
Military Presence and Daily Life Challenges
Traveling through Myanmar, the presence of soldiers and checkpoints is inescapable. Military convoys move north-east, while displaced civilians head center-south in search of safety. Monasteries, empty hotels, and restaurants provide makeshift shelters for the displaced, creating temporary hubs of humanity.
Many older soldiers have returned to duty due to economic hardship and low pensions, while many young men flee Myanmar to avoid conscription or to join the People’s Defense Forces (PDF) aka the “democratic resistance”. These movements reveal a deep-seated divide, with some soldiers seeing their role as stabilizers in a country where diversity and conflict intertwine.
The memory of “the lady”—Aung San Suu Kyi—persists among the people. Many recall her leadership with affection and hope, as her image continues to hang quietly in places, a reminder of a period that felt, for many, more hopeful. “We could see visible progress in everyday life during the ladies time”, were words that echoed alongside many encounters.
“When times are calmer, I want to all invite you to my house and eat with my family”. Not an uncommon phrase along the visit, but one that stuck particularly. A friendly man which we met at the temples close to a village around Inle lake reported on how he lives a mere 40km away but could frequently hear the gun shots in the past weeks. “But right now it wouldn´t be the time and place.”
Struggles with Infrastructure and Economic Instability
Frequent power outages and fuel shortages underscore the economic strain here. Even in major cities like Yangon, electricity is sometimes limited and dependent on expensive generators. It’s worse in Mandalay, where control is already less tight. Meanwhile, fuel is rationed, and military convoys hauling fuel are a common sight. The currency has plummeted, and the rapid inflation strains families and small businesses trying to keep up with rising costs. In sharp contrast, the new capital and government stronghold Naypyidaw has a stable electricity supply, to the absurd extent of street lights burning all night along the deserted multi-lane mega-highways.
The currency’s rapid depreciation—from 1 USD equalling 1,500 Kyat in 2020 to around 4,500 Kyat today—has left many grappling with financial instability. For many, this unpredictability feels like another layer of uncertainty in an already unstable life.
Checkpoints and Controlled Perceptions
Military checkpoints and extensive security checks are now routine, with a focus on preventing the movement of both weapons and people. Travelers encounter multiple inspections, particularly on highways and cities entrances, as the government works to maintain control. Most soldiers are friendly and bored, others like to exert a certain level of power and authority. Also, there always are two versions of events surrounding incidents, often with the resistance classified as “terrorists” in official state reports.
In line with this controlled image, the government selectively permits access to tourist zones while enforcing restrictions on travel to other regions. The objective is clear: to project an image of stability and safety, even as the reality is far more complex.
The Unbreakable Spirit of Myanmar’s People
Life here is challenging, but Myanmar’s people remain resilient. They support one another, lend a hand in crisis, and, amid the turmoil, find moments to share stories, food, and laughter. Their unity—whether in facing natural disasters, navigating economic hardships, or holding onto hope for peace—is profound. As Myanmar’s people continue to navigate these hardships, their strength and solidarity shine through, embodying a determination for a future where their voices might one day lead the way.